Dodiyós serves an array of tasty Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare.
By Jan Walsh
Photography by Beau Gustafson
Dodiyós opened in late 2009, in the former Tria Market location at SoHo Square. The eatery’s cuisine is a mix—of both traditional and innovative dishes primarily from Greece, but also from Spain, Italy, France, Turkey, the Balkans, North Africa and the Middle East. The exotic, eclectic ambience and cuisine have been well received by locals.
Those who enjoyed Tria Restaurant, myself among them, will recognize the evolution of its concept—a restaurant with a market that sells the products used in the dishes as well as the prepared or cooked items on the menu. And Tria’s former “magic carpet ride” ambience has been enlarged and enhanced. Entering through a tented lobby area diners are led either left or right of the 50-seat tapas bar, which encircles the center of the main dining space. Total seating is 220. All food products in each dish are sold in “The Street Market,” located in the back of the restaurant.
Draped booths line the left wall, for semi private dining. A banquette with Turkish cushions lines the wall to the right, providing a birds eye view of the expansive space. For groups, there are two private dining spaces. And the patio will open in April.
The unique name of the restaurant is taken from the letters of managing partner, George Sarris’ ancestors: Grandmother Dorothy (Do), father Konstadinos (Di) and Yorgos (Yos). Sarris, managing partner Connie Kanakis and general manager/operating partner Dean Robb combine their own unique talents, education and experience in this new restaurant venture.
My favorite Dodiyós cocktail is the Lemon and Basil Martini. A long, tall, cool lime green martini arrives filled to the brim. Bits of basil swim in this concoction of Absolut Citron with house made sweet and sour. A thinly sliced, lemon peel swirls through the center of this smooth, balanced and delightful drink.
Dodiyós’ signature soup of Chicken and Orzo Soup Soupa Avgolemono was inspired by his mother’s soup. A large, white bowl of golden Chicken-and-Orzo Soup arrives, as it should—piping hot. This light lemon-and-egg, chicken-and-orzo includes tasty strips of shredded white and dark chicken meat and is dotted with comfortingly huge pieces of al dente orzo. I could eat this soup every day! I debated various options before deciding on an entrée of Spaghetti à la Barcelona, which is available for both lunch and dinner. A large plate of hearty, old world spaghetti is topped with jumbo shrimp, scallops, mussels, chopped onions and fresh tomatoes in a creamy garlic-wine sauce. One glimpse of this colorful array of seafood and pasta—with spicy, aromatic aromas rising from this steaming hot dish—I know I made an excellent choice. The first bite of this exotic dish confirmed it. This flavorful combo of succulent shrimp, delicate mussels and scallops, with thick ribbons of spaghetti is enhanced by the acidity of the tomatoes and heat of the onions and garlic. And for dessert sweet meets sweet in the Rice Pudding Crème Brûlee. This custard is golden and crisp on top with garnishes of candied orange and blackberry slices. The top of this brûlee breaks into the creamy, smooth Greek nihaki rice pudding, adding bites of texture and caramel nuances.
magazine, March 2010