Reviews

To Fruition

Founder, Dean Robb’s Big Picture for Blueprint on 3rd

By Jan Walsh

Blueprint on 3rd’s founder, Dean Robb laid the groundwork for a successful restaurant, long before it opened. And on opening night he, his family, and team began to execute his plan. From the first bite guests became regulars, including Kev and me. His vision was a comfortable yet edgy ambience that reflected Birmingham’s character with consistency in both service and kitchen, focusing on food guests will love. Yet, in addition to all the pieces of Dean’s plan coming together, I also always find an unexpected piece.

Located on 3rd Avenue South, there is a valet in waiting just steps from the door. I know the geography and how many steps from car to table… doctor’s orders have me in a walking boot, but I cheat and wear flats instead. And just as I planned the valet assists me out of the car, and Dean opens the door like clockwork.

Seated at our window table, we look over the wine list. I spot a wine we have not had in many years, a food friendly, white Bordeaux that was our first serious wine decades ago. Our server Matthew opens a well-chilled bottle of Chateau Ducasse, Graves 2023. One sip brings back memories of laying down vintages in our wine cellar. We drank it early, which we thought was good until we savored the wine at its peak. We served it at parties and holidays. And almost everyone who drank it asked what it was. The wine is about 70 percent Sémillon, which adds body and structure to the 30 percent sauvignon blanc and splash of muscadelle. Lush and creamy, the Bordeaux boasts refreshing acidity with notes of passion fruit, grapefruit, grass, and a salty minerality. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, rather than oak, keeps the fruit pure and bright. And aging on fine yeast for six months adds texture and depth. We need to buy a case again for the cellar!

 

 



To pair with the Ducasse, we both select Deviled Egg, Sugar Baby Watermelon Salad for Kev, Farmer’s Market Salad for me, and for Ross, who is dog sitting for us tonight, we order a to go of Bacon Wrapped Smoked Quail, dressed with arugula, shaved carrots, and cabbage in Alabama White BBQ sauce. The eggs garnished with trout roe tease our appetites. Kev’s watermelon is enhanced by in season, local, baby cucumbers, mellow red onions, crisp arugula, and pungent feta, in a tangy lime-agave vinaigrette. Such a lovely summer synthesis! I have never missed the annual farmer’s salad since opening night. Blueprint’s famous mix of crisp corn, earthy field peas, juicy cucumber, grassy arugula, and acidic tomato is dressed in grenache vinaigrette and topped fried onions and a creamy dollop of farmer’s cheese. This salad has it all!




For entrees Kev opts for, Executive Chef, James Huckaby’s the Steak of the Day: Eight Ounce Filet. And I catch the Crawfish Bolognese. The steak arrives sizzling with Kev’s choice of a house made butter sauce, a side of potatoes, and tomato salad. It is cooked to order, juicy and tender, boasting deep, beefy flavors. The potatoes are twice baked! Who does this other than a steakhouse? I do not even make these at home except for two on special occasions. Baked in individual ramekins, the potato flavor pops on the palate with soothing creamy richness. I was hopeful Kev might offer me a bite of his thick slice of tomato. But he did not, which is telling of the success of this simple salad.

 

 

The Bolognese had me with its strozzapreti. This elongated, hand-rolled pasta is derived from the Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Umbria regions of Italy. Strozzapreti translates to "priest strangler" or "priest choker.” Legend has it that glutinous priests gorged themselves on the pasta, making locals hopeful it would strangle them. With the appearance of a rolled scroll, irregular pasta effortlessly entraps sauces and meats inside. And tonight it does just that with fennel sausage, okra, and a spicy cream sauce. Not only the pasta, but everything about this Bolognese is unexpected! When I think of Bolognese, I think ground beef not seafood and fennel sausage, and tomatoes not okra. On first bite it is spicier than I expected. Yet the sauce’s creaminess and rustic doughiness of the pasta balance the spice making it me want another bite and another… The herbal fennel sausage grounds this dish with texture, while highlighting the sweetness and minerality of the freshwater crustaceans. And the okra adds color, summer brightness, and crunchiness. And through it all, the crawfish shines! Highly recommended!

For dessert Kev opts for the Banana Pudding and I for Peach Cobbler with a chaser of Limoncello. Kev’s pudding is almost to pretty to eat! Pudding and wafers layered in an Irish coffee cup that is generous in bananas, topped with Chantilly cream. He savors this downhome goodness! And my cobbler is crumble style topped with vanilla ice cream. Baked in its own dish brings more flavor than a large cobbler. The dessert is bursting with warm peachiness, golden crunchiness, and melting creaminess. Just like your grandmother made… Bet she never served it with a limoncello!

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