Together In Time
100 years, one location, two iconic restaurants: Joy Young and Café Dupont
By Jan Walsh
If only I could time travel. In my mind, I do…
Arriving at Café Dupont, the valet welcomes and walks us to the door. Here we enter the historic bar, are graciously welcomed by the hostess, and taken a step up to the dining room. Seated at the center, window table, beside the original doors with big city views, co-owner (with wife Angela) and executive chef, Chris Evans stops by the table. As we catch up, he shares an old photograph he recently found of the exterior of Café Dupont’s Bar from 1925. The right front window reads, “Joy Young Restaurant!” Above the door are two temporary signs announcing the upcoming move up the street to 212 – 214 20th Street North, “on or about” October 1. A location that would become their beloved home for the next 50 years and my favorite restaurant in the 1970s. As a teen my girlfriends and I would drive from Oneonta to downtown Birmingham to shop and lunch in Joy Young’s dining room. And on dinner dates we dined upstairs in private, curtained booths. An endless array of Chinese and American dishes delighted us: egg rolls, butterflied shrimp, chop suey, chicken chow mien, and so many more. I followed the restaurant to Brookwood in the 1980s. And in the 1990s I tracked down what was believed to be their egg rolls in a takeout joint on Greensprings.
Today I can no longer find a decent egg roll in this city. A few weeks ago, I began craving Joy Young’s egg rolls again. I bought a couple of chef driven Chinese cookbooks and researched online for similar recipes. But in the meantime, came up with my own egg rolls. I jokingly call them, “Jan Young Egg Rolls.”
I am stunned and amazed to learn that 103 years ago, in June 1922 Joy Young was started in Café Dupont’s Bar! With a partial view, from my seat, I lean in to peek further inside the bar. “If only I could go back in time,” I say to Kev. He smiles. And my imagination takes flight in a Deja vu daydream… Stepping down into the bar, in my black t-strap heels, I step back in time 100 years, donning a low waisted flapper dress, long string of pearls, and a cloche hat. This space has the same paneled walls, same tile floor, and same staircase leading to the private loft, just as in 2025. Yet on the window it reads” Joy Young Restaurant.” Here co-owner, Joe Mansion greets me and brings my favorite: egg rolls. Time stands still as I bite into their golden, crunchy crust thinly wrapped around cabbage stuffed with pork, and shrimp with just a touch of both Chinese mustard and sweet and sour sauce. I look up into Café Dupont’s dining room where I see Kev at our table nibbling bread and our server, Brandon coming with cocktails. “I have to go.” Joe asks if I will come to the new location for opening night. “Of course, I would not miss it… ”
Back to reality, I toast my storied memories of Joy Young at Café Dupont with a delightful kicker, Kentucky Sour Pony and Kev clinks with bright Margarita Sunrise, both from the Featured Cocktails list. I was a Café Dupont fangirl from the time it opened in Springville. More memories than I can share. Yet one behind the scenes story stands out that I have never published... Many years ago, when New York’s Food and Wine magazine decided to come to Birmingham, they used BirminghamRestaurants.com to find and compare restaurants. They also asked my suggestions and invited me to “dinners.” Reservations were made at three restaurants… all in one night! Disappointed that my recommendation of Café Dupont did not make their list, I insisted on it. So, the writer jumped off the plane and headed there for lunch. Afterwards, she called me from the sidewalk saying, “I was WOWED by Café Dupont!” She also shared the surreal scene of everything else she saw, up and down the street, was vacant and some boarded up. And when the article was published, it led with Café Dupont…
What a culinary comeback of the downtown dining scene Café Dupont also led! One does not merely eat here. Dinner at Café Dupont is a dining experience. The ambience of this historic place is one you want to dress up for… Kev wears his best, summer jacket and tie without being asked to. The candlelit tables are draped in pristine white tablecloths, setting the stage for Café Dupont’s classic, colorful cuisine, presented on Dupont worthy plates. This signature array of custom made, colorful “CD” collection by Earthborn Pottery are a cut above the typical restaurant tableware, especially the new style of grey, metal “plates.” The textured blue, French lacey ones are my favorite. And dinner always begins with a dainty and delightful amuse bouche. Is there another restaurant in Birmingham that still serves amuse bouche?
For our first course, Kev settles on the Buttercrunch and Strawberry Salad. I am torn between the Artisan Cheese Plate and the Sesame Seared Ahi Tuna but finally order the tuna.
We pair with a lovely bottle of Atlantique Sauvignon Blanc 2023. Graciousness never goes out of style at Café Dupont! Along with our selections, Chef sent a complimentary cheese plate. View Cheese Plate Tour. Kev is not a lettuce fan, but he relishes the texture and flavors of this lettuce. He describes as, “not fighting with the lettuce.” Fresh strawberries bring sweetness, toasted sunflower seeds add bright crunchiness, citrus farmers cheese lends creaminess, and strawberry vinaigrette drizzles on sweet and sour acidity. Kev recommends! My tuna arrives in a scrumptious citrus crudo broth, topped with juicy orange supreme, delicate smoked trout pearls, and crisp microgreens. This mild meaty fish also boasts notes of soy syrup and Persian lime. Calling tuna lovers, catch this.
After enjoying another refreshing amuse bouche, we order entrees. Kev has the Grilled, Smoked Prime Rib. Again, I am undecided, between the Cast Iron Seared Sea Scallops and Pan Seared Gulf Red Snapper. So, I request that Chef choose for me. Brandon selects a red wine to pair with the steak, Trig Point Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Dust 2022. The well marbled steak is cooked to order with veal demi glace. But before grilling the steak, Chef smokes the beef upstairs. And this gorgeous cab brings forth the smokiness and enhances its deep, beefy flavors. And it is served with a beautiful, rich, cream, herbaceous Boursain potato gratin. Highly recommended!
Rather than choosing, Chef added scallops to the snapper plate. The scallops are perfection. Chef achieves a golden top and bottom while keeping the delicate inside moist, and jiggly. I have never had better! The snapper is mild and delicate, served over a vibrant farmer’s market summer succotash, and is crowned with grilled onion, crabmeat relish, and microgreens. The best of both worlds!
For dessert, we share Chilton County Peach Cobbler. Baked in its own ramekin, in season peaches meld with toasted honey ice cream, topped with caramel sauce in this comforting cobbler.
After dessert, Chef Chris stops by the table to say goodbye. And as we exit through the bar, I stop Kev at the door and suggest we get an order of egg rolls to take home for tomorrow… He laughs.
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