New Reign
Galley and Garden has a new chef and menu.
By Jan Walsh
I was here when Galley and Garden was Veranda on Highland. I was also here for all the evolutions of this restaurant since. And I am here now for Chef Che Gaines as he turns the page in the next chapter of Galley and Garden’s story.
Chef Che’ is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America. Beyond Birmingham, his experience includes kitchens in New York City, Las Vegas, Miami, Boston, and Los Angeles. He has appeared on Bravo TV, NBC, and The Food Network. Here at Galley and Garden he is synthesizing Southern comfort with French techniques and bright flavors of the Caribbean and the boldness of Latin American cuisine.
Tonight we valet in the driveway of this historic restaurant. Also new at Galley and Garden is the new General Manager, Coe Taylor who welcomes us inside. Here Maître d', Stan Reynolds greets me with a hug. His smiling face is the permanent fixture at Galley and Garden. Stan has been here since Hurricane Katrina. Prior to the hurricane he spent two decades at Commanders Palace. He also holds a B.A. in Art from Auburn University. Stan’s passions are gardening and painting. He grows the flower garden in the front of the restaurant and adorns the walls inside with his watercolor landscapes.
Seated at our favorite white tableclothed table in front of the fireplace, chilled bottles of sparkling water are waiting. IFKYK and Stan knows. Looking over tonight’s menu, I am impressed. Galley & Garden has never had this much seafood and local heirloom food products on the menu. We begin with cocktails, Bourbon Glazed Pork Belly, Gulf Shrimp Toast à la Plancha, and Heirloom Tomato & Burrata. The melt in the mouth pork is enhanced by a comforting sweet potato purée and a fruity cherry pomegranate reduction. It is accompanied by a crunchy citrus apple slaw. À la Plancha is Spanish for “grilled on a metal plate.” A popular method of cooking in Spain, Portugal, and Latin America, it requires little fat and cooks at an intense heat over 500 degrees, resulting in a savory, caramelized crust while keeping the inside soft and moist. This dish starts with the best of breads as the foundation, Birmingham Breadworks Sourdough Bread. Atop the bread are succulent Gulf shrimp with garlic confit butter, grilled lemon, asparagus, serrano, and fine herbs. This could be an entrée. Highly recommended! The summer salad is a creamy burrata flanked by heirloom tomato wedges, and topped with shaved fennel, crispy shallots, grilled sourdough crumble, roasted garlic champagne vinaigrette, and a charred basil leaf. Lovely!
For entrees we select Coffee and Herb Crusted Filet Mignon and Spanish Seafood Cioppino. The steak is enhanced by roasted garlic, pomme puree, honey glazed heirloom baby carrots, bordelaise, and crispy shallot. The knife glides through the steak encrusted top effortlessly to its pink center. A beautiful balance, the crust adds texture to the soft steak and enhances the flavors, without overpowering, its subtle beefiness and buttery richness. Pomme puree is a French style mashed potatoes that achieves its silky texture by passing cooked potatoes through a potato ricer or fine mesh sieve and adding a lot of butter and hot milk or cream. Chef Che’s version is glossy in appearance, smooth in texture, and bursting with potato flavor. The ultimate mashed potatoes! And the dish is rounded out by heirloom carrots, adding color and earthiness. The Cioppino is a seafood lover’s dream. This big catch of shellfish and fish is simmered in a bright and acidic broth of roasted tomato, fennel, saffron and white wine. And it is complemented by two starches, grilled garlic bread and fresh linguine. The bread soaks up the broth, and ribbons of linguine wrap up this scrumptious seafood stew.
Chef Che’ is also known for inventive desserts. We order one upside down and another inside out, The Upside-Down Cheesecake and Lemon Lava Cake. And we pair with Pierre Sparr Crémant from Alsace France. The touch of whimsy cheesecake is delightful with caramelized pineapple, roasted bourbon peaches, whipped mascarpone, and buttery graham crumble. The inside out lava cake in lemon vanilla glaze is plated on a fruity blueberry lavender compote and is topped with vanilla bean Chantilly and candied lemon zest. Inside is a molten center of zesty and creamy lemon curd flows out on first cut. Save room for dessert and order both.
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