Reviews

Dinner Party

Kev and I host a dinner party... at FoodBar.

By Jan Walsh

Many people enjoy dinner parties… When I do “dinner parties,” I host at restaurants. Tonight our friends, Jim, Arthur, and Deb join Kev, Ross, and me for dinner at Chef George McMillian’s FoodBar in the Cahaba Heights neighborhood of Vestavia Hills.

We start with plump and firm meaty Marinated Crab Claws and cocktails: Crocodile Tears from the featured cocktails and request a Limoncello Martini and a Dirty Martini. We have never requested a cocktail here that was not accommodated.


Sommelier and Head Waiter, John Rusiecki shares some new wines including a French sparkler, Ferrandiere Blanc de Blanc from the Languedoc region. The wine is creamy in texture and offers notes of lemon, white peach, toasty brioche, and an affordable price point. We pair this wine with Steamed Mussels, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and Vine Ripe Tomato Salads. “The generous bowl of succulent mussels boasts a savory flavor. And their white wine, basil, and garlic broth is tasted more than seen, dipping the grilled bread into it. The broth does not overpower the mussels, which is the point of the dish. Deliciously subtle,” Ross describes. Several of our guests ordered the tomato salad. Unique to FoodBar’s version of tomato salad is fried green tomatoes layered in the stack of fresh Better Boys and heirlooms. And the shrimp aioli is the cherry on top. All who ordered it raved over their salad and ate every morsel! The rich, fatty foie gras is balanced with sweet and fruity poached peach, and a nutmeg griddle toast, a spiced version of French Toast. And it is all enhanced by a hint of acidity in the viscous, plummy port wine syrup. A divine delicacy!

For entrees, we opt for Sauteed Gulf Snapper, Grilled Flatiron Steaks, and Grilled Rainbow Trout. The snapper is a pristine piece of fish that is golden on the outside and white and flaky on the inside. It crowns fresh veggies of crisp fried okra, fresh haricot verts, Mrs. Dial’s squash patties. Chef’s tangy tarragon tartar brings creamy tang with a vibrant herbal note. The down-home Southern squash is named for Chef George’s maternal grandmother. Her method was to grate the squash and make into flat fritters to fry. And he does her proud!

The guys can’t go wrong with meat and potatoes. Although the term “flat iron steaks” sounds countrified the steaks are second in tenderness to filet mignon. In 2002 flat iron steak research was funded by National Cattleman’s Beef Association to develop a profitable use for shoulder chuck cuts. The researchers discovered that trimming out that inner connective tissue left behind a tender, flavorful well-marbled cut in the shape of a a metal flatiron. For best eating cut against the grain of your flat iron steak at 45-degree angles (bias cut), creating wide strips with maximum tenderness. The steaks are served atop chive mashed potatoes and fresh sauteed asparagus, all in a mild and fruity green peppercorn sauce.Chef George is a master at sauces, and it shows in every accompanied sauce tonight.

The trout is a delicate, clean, and mild fish that is contrasted with the herbaceous spring onion and zesty pickled cauliflower. Fresh local sweet corn, bold arugula, and a vivacious sauce Verde round out the balanced plate with texture and color. Light and lovely!


For dessert, we select FoodBar Doughnuts, Chocolate Pots de Crème, Burnt Basque Cheesecake, and Individual Lemon Meringue Pie. As we begin dessert, Chef George visits our table. Always a pleasure to see him, I have never eaten at FoodBar when he was not in the kitchen. FoodBar’s famous doughnuts are complete with tasty toffee caramel sauce and a splendid vanilla anglaise. The decadent and dreamy chocolate pot is highlighted with candied pecan crunch and crème Chantilly. The crustless and caramelized cheesecake would be ravishing served naked. But the blueberry compote and whey caramel sauce take it to another dimension. And the work of art lemon tart is a lemon lover’s fantasy from its citrus shortbread crust, lemon pie filling, to its toasted meringue atop. Our guests are beyond impressed and discuss plans to revisit FoodBar soon. I tell them to call Heather Hay, Director of Operations to reserve. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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