Mr. Downtown
Chef Tom Saab executes excellence at three downtown locations.
By Jan Walsh
“Darkness falls and the night’s begun,” as Chef Tom Saab opens Sloan’s, Bistro 218, and Bocca Ristorante. I first met Tom Saab in 2012 when he opened Bistro 218. He struck me as an authentic perfectionist, focusing on the food and not on himself, as the chef. And although all he wanted to do was cook, he soon made time to visit tables, meet people, and get their feedback. Perfection paid off. Bistro 218 was an overnight success and quickly became a fine dining favorite among foodies. In 2019 he quietly shared his plans with me for a second restaurant. In 2020 he opened Bocca Ristorante. I have closely watched successful Birmingham chefs open a second restaurant for more than 20 years. Typically, they prove to be distractors from their original “star” restaurant and eventually fail.
However, Tom Saab is a phenom. Bocca Ristorante rolled over the pandemic and resulting street violence like a tank, becoming an immediate star restaurant itself. In 2024 he shared his plans for opening Sloan’s next door while I was dining at Bocca. As I left the building I snapped a picture of the side of the building with its faded paint, “Sloan's Liniment,” which inspired its future as a “bourbon destination” and my favorite bar. Chef Tom and wife, Christy are owners and operators of all three establishments.
Tonight we have reservations at Bistro 218 but stop for a predinner drink at Sloan’s. Outside are ballons “70” directing birthday party guests upstairs to the new private party space, The Copper Room. Inside Sloan’s we are greeted by Chef Tom, who has a doggie water bowl in hand, headed to the sidewalk. Delighted our favorite curved banquette is open, we slide into the leather booth. The last time we were here I had the best dirty martini of my life! Today we order two Brandy Alexanders and Deviled Eggs. Kev is addicted to these incredible eggs… Next time we need to make a night of it at Sloan’s.
Arriving at Bistro 218, I spot Tom at the end of the bar working on a laptop. Seated at our favorite window table, we order Les Glories Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut NV. Light blush and gold in color with notes of citrus and almond in this delicate yet complex wine of four grapes: pinot noir, pinot d’ aunis, cabernet franc, and grolleau. Out the window I now see Tom on the street, loading wine into the back of an SUV, likely headed to Bocca. Who says you can’t be in two (or three) places at the same time?
For our first course we have Oysters Rockefeller and Watermelon Salad. The classic New Orleans oyster appetizer arrives golden and bubbling. A rich buttery sauce envelops herby creamed spinach, thick cut bacon lardons, and a touch of absinthe. Oyster lovers, order this dish! Or if you are not in love with oysters, one bite and you will be. The Florida watermelons are icy cold, and simply dressed with pistachio and sea salt, allowing the flavors of summer melon to shine. Always recommended in this heat!
For main courses Kev has the Char-Grilled Petite Filet Mignon and I select the Blackened Louisiana Redfish. The filet arrives sizzling. On first cut we see it is cooked to order and juicy. This melt in the mouth mignon is served in a veal glace with an incredible potato gratin and grilled asparagus. I eat half this gratin myself. Generous in portion, the redfish floats atop McEwen’s Yellow Corn Grits and a lovely white wine butter sauce. A touch of green brightens the plate with asparagus and haricot verts. The redfish is smoky and charred on the outside, clean and mild on the inside. And its flaky texture breaks into satisfying bites. Highly recommended!
For dessert we share Chocolate Mignardise Plate with an Irish Coffee. Pastry Chef, Elizabeth Jackson out does herself with this sharable sensation. It includes a small French cake, dark chocolate cremeux, and walnut maple truffle. The French Press coffee is made to order, fortified with Quiet Man Irish Whiskey and topped with freshly whipped cream. It goes down smoothly and is a lovely match for the chocolate dessert. Unfortunately, unlike Chef Tom, we can’t be in more than one place at a time. So, on these sweet notes, we head home.
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