Reviews

Fish Wish List

My favorite “seafood" restaurant? Chez Fonfon

By Jan Walsh


Chez Fonfon is the French accent of Frank Stitt Restaurant Group. Owned by Chef Frank Stitt and wife Pardis, other Stitt restaurants include Bottega Café, Bottega Dining Room, and Highlands Bar and Grill.

This week’s menu at Chez Fonfon is like more than a seafood lover could wish for. Specials include Scallop Brochette, Shrimp and Lobster BLT, Crabcakes, and a daily Fish of the Day. Kev and I came for Mercredi: Lobster & Shrimp BLT. But with our son, Ross’ help we also caught Specialite du jour: Redfish. And on the main menu are Fish Paillard, Moules and Frites, Shrimp and Avocado salad, and Trout Amandine.

 

Ross is a cocktail connoisseur, whom we recently engaged to upgrade our collection of spirits at home in our antique bar. So, we lean into his knowledge as we look over the cocktail list. We opt for Aperole Spritz, Parisian Seche, and Midnight Spritz. And bless the heart of the bartender who makes them! We pair our cocktail orders with the Petite Charcuterie Platter and Artesian Cheeses, which is another reason we invited Ross... Now that the bar is finished, he wants to create charcuteries menus to pair with cocktails and wine. And I told him let’s go to Fonfon for inspiration. Nobody does it better than Chef Frank Stitt. View Petite Charcuterie & Cheese Tour with artisanal cheeses, walnuts, baguette.

At my recommendation for a second course, Ross has the Escargots. In addition to today’s entrée special, Kev and I came for the Tomato Salad(s), not sharing. Escargots arrive bubbling and crusty, in their own, charming, cast-iron snail pan. As steam rises, buttery and garlicy appetizing aromas rise from the tender, tantalizing snails, brightened with shallots. Our Tomato Salads are a medley of colorful, juicy heirlooms full of summer flavor. The tomatoes are enhanced with in season crisp cucumbers, silky, tangy bites of capriole goat cheese, and mild and meaty Castelvetrano Olives. Don’t miss this dish.

Nobody does seafood better than Fonfon. We pair next course with seafood friendly Clavelin Brut Comte Cremant du Jura. Golden in color with delicate, creamy mousse and persistent effervescence. Notes of green apple, pear, lemon zest, and white peach are layered with essences of toasted almond, fresh brioche, and limestone. Dry and finely structured, the wine is a balance of orchard fruit flavors with acidity and minerality. Ross’ redfish floats atop a scrumptious bed of in season field peas, fresh haricots verts, and heirloom tomatoes. The fish is mild and sweet in flavor, moist and medium in texture, and flakes finely. Like red snapper yet more savory and buttery with an oceanic finish. And a lovely Pistou (to pound) sauce brightens the dish’s flavors and aromas. This classic Provençal sauce is made by crushing fresh basil, garlic, and olive oil into an intensely fragrant paste.

Our annual Shrimp and Lobster fest is tried and truer than ever. Open faced, fork and knife BLT boasts layers of crisp romaine with heirloom tomatoes, chunks of sweet lobster and succulent Gulf Shrimp, and crisp, crunchy bacon. This memorable salad, which varies only slightly year to year. Catch it if you can!

For dessert, it is Chocolate Mousse for Ross, Big Spoon Sorbet for Kev, and Cherry Trifle for me. The chocolaty mousse has a hint of citrus from its orange liqueur, and its espresso adds another layer of depth. The deep, rich mousse is topped with sweet cream and dark chocolate shavings and is served with a soft cookie. As Kev and Ross steal bites of my trifle, I dig deep into one of my all-time favorite chocolate desserts. Calling chocoholics for this dreamy dessert! The fruity sorbet beats the heat and cools the palate. Paired with shortbread cookie, it makes a light delightful dessert.


Cherry Trifle is the cherry on top of our lunch today! Like colorful quilts on your grandmother’s bed, served on her finest china: at first bite blankets of tart cherries, airy spongy cake, rich custard, diplomat cream, and crunchy almonds become one rumpled synthesis of contrasting yet comforting flavors and textures. All Fonfon’s ever changing, in season trifles, including this one, are highly recommended.

 

 

 

 

 


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