Here’s The BEEF
Bocca has one 24-ounce ribeye in the house!
By Jan Walsh
Tonight, we have reservations at Bocca Ristorante at 5:00 p.m. But first we stop by Sloan’s next door for pre-dinner cocktails. Sloan’s has a chic country club bar ambience: leather banquettes, dim lighting, and fine whiskeys. Kev orders from the happy hour (4:00 until 6:00) menu, a creamy Tito’s Espresso Tini. And I have a lowball beauty, Blackberry Old Fashioned from the signature list. Highly recommend starting dinner at Bocca here at Sloan’s with a drink! New tradition.
The People
Located next door, both Bocca and Sloan’s are family owned and operated by Chef Tom and Christy Saab, along with their Bistro 218. We are welcomed at Bocca's door and later at the table by Tom. The Saabs daughter, Ashley Rose shows us to our favorite banquette. Here General Manager and Sommelier, Carlos Cisneros welcomes us. And we are introduced to Bocca’s new Chef de Cuisine, James Bennett.
The Place
Bocca is reminiscence of a Milan courtyard restaurant. The layered, high-ceilinged interior with natural light shines through the skylight, creating an airy ambience. Curvy, blue banquettes wind around the main space, anchored by live green plants. There is a full bar in the right corner of the dining room. Separate smaller spaces line the left wall from storefront window to back of the building. In addition to “in fresco,” Boccca also has a patio for al fresco dining, where a variety of wine and food tastings and events are held.
The Food & Beverage
Bocca Ristorante boasts traditional Northern Italian cuisine in the heart of downtown Birmingham. Being the first to arrive at Bocca tonight, we hear rumors about the 24-ounce ribeye. There is only one. Ensuring it has our name on it, now there are none. Next, we order cocktails of Chocolate Martini for Kev and Blood Orange Italian Spritz for me. The chocolaty tini is creamy and rich, a classic that few restaurants have ingredients to make. My refreshing spritz is a bright, citrusy quencher, garnished with a slice of Bravazzi Blood Orange.
For starters Kev opts for Bocca’s famous Beef and Pork Meatballs. And I have the Handkerchief Pasa alla Vodka. Tonight, the marvelous meatballs are served atop a creamy polenta that rounds out the protein with starch and serves as a bright backdrop. We love this new set. Highly recommended! The delicate, draped, silky pasta is plump with spinach, tomato, and ricotta. And a vibrant vodka sauce adds richness, color, and complexity.
The wine programs at Bocca and Bistro 218 rival any in the city and state. Carlos holds Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advanced Sommelier.
This is the third of four levels of the Court, including Master Sommelier. To pair with our first course, we order Ca del Bosco Sparkling from Franciacorta. Franciacorta for years has been regarded as the champagne region of Italy. This is a classic wine made by the legendary Mauricio Zanella, composed primarily of Chardonnay along with Pinot Bianco and Pino Nero. “With less than two grams of residual sugar per liter, it is very dry but supported by beautiful ripe fruit," Carlos describes. I find this lovely wine as golden yellow in color with persistent effervescence. And flavors of yellow fruit, apple and lemon, are balanced with a rich creaminess. “The glass is a trademark glass of the region, called a Franciacorta glass. It has the perfect shape to display its aromatics and deliver the wine to the correct part of the palate. To the best of my knowledge, Bocca is the only restaurant that uses these glasses in Alabama,” he adds.
We want one steak, two ways! Kev likes his steak, medium but I want it medium rare. I argue that my choice is the “gold standard and crown jewel,” according to Sullivan’s Steak Temperature Guide. Yet eventually we both compromise, in a discussion with our server, Anna. We want both medium and medium rare! It should look pink to red inside. The steak arrives precut along with Chef James. The steak has a caramelized crust outside and warm, juicy pink to center of red inside. He achieved the medium and medium rare doneness request! Accompanying the steak are scalloped potatoes, asparagus, and broccolini. The potatoes are a scrumptious work of art. They rival and tie with Frank Stitt’s as being the best I ever had. I could eat a plateful of these. Early bird gets the beef at Bocca. So, make early reservations for this steak, if it is in the house!
To pair with our steak tonight, Carlos suggests two wines: Agostina Pieri Rosso di Montalcino or Greppicante Super Tuscan. Rather than choosing, I suggest the Sangiovese for Kev and the Tuscan wine for me. “Agostina Pieri Rosso di is as close to Brunello as you can get without paying Brunello prices. It has lots of tart cherry and cranberry supported by gentle acidity and tannin,” Carlos explains. And he describes my Greppicante Super Tuscan as a crowd favorite. “Mostly composed of Merlot, supported by equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Rich, juicy and vibrant with a full-bodied palate with a little chocolate note on the finish.” I find it perfect for a medium rare or even a rare steak.
For dessert we share Italian Chocolate Mousse. The creamy, chocolaty mousse is topped with Chantilly cream and a shortbread cookie.
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