Chez Fonfon’s simple grilled fish is simply delicious.
By Jan Walsh
Photography by Beau Gustafson
When lunching at Chez Fonfon, I arrive early. Today I open the place at 11:00 a.m. because I know that by 11:30 there is typically not a table left. And by noon the bar will likely also be full. Chez Fonfon offers three daily specials: a soup and two entrées—one of which my usual order of simple grilled fish.
Today’s Chaque jour
is black grouper. Of the three sauce options, I select beurre blanc and order a glass of Franck Miller Sancerre 2010 as my beverage pairing. A metal basket of hot French bread arrives with the cold wine. I spread the cold butter atop each bite, nibble the bread and sip the Sancerre until the fish dish arrives. The portion is sizable. Several succulent, moist and milky pieces of grilled grouper—lightly coated in beurre blanc—crown the tender Brabant potatoes and fresh, tasty, crisp and squeaky haricot verts. Bite after bite the quality of the food products shine though in this simply prepared lovely lunch. Wonder what the fish is tomorrow?
magazine, February 2012