Hot and Hot Fish Club goes whole hog over Fudge Family Farms.
By Jan Walsh
Photography by Beau Gustafson
Hot and Hot Fish Club's Chris Hastings is always in search of the best, local purveyors in an effort support the local economy and bring the highest quality ingredients to his guests. And Henry Fudge and his Fudge Family Farms are the latest addition to his family of purveyors.
“Mr. Fudge’s pigs are unlike any that you find mass-produced in a typical grocery store or wholesale market. By breeding Duroc pigs with Berkshire pigs, Mr. Fudge has created a line of hogs that have incredible marbling, tenderness, and flavor,” chef and co-owner, Chris Hastings says. Hastings typically purchases whole hogs from Fudge, and teaches his cooks to use every part, “from the rooter to the tooter.” Purchasing whole hogs from the Fudge Family Farms also allows Hastings and his staff to work with less common cuts of meat such as the belly, shank, head, neck, and leaf fat. “We utilize these parts in homemade sausage, head cheese, rillette, and as lard for our pastry dough.”
Fudge also has 20 co-producers, most of whom are Amish families. “We never use any antibiotics or added hormones, and feed only plant derived feed. All our animals live outdoors, in the fresh air and sunshine with access to forage,” Fudge says.
MR. FUDGE’S ROAST PORK LOIN WITH SAGE SPAETZLE, BRAISED GREENS AND ROOT VEGETABLES
¼ pound baby carrots, peeled and tops trimmed
¼ pound baby turnips, peeled and tops trimmed
1 (3 to 3 1/2-pound) boneless pork loin
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Hastings Creations Herb Salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ pound baby beets, tops trimmed, roasted, peeled, and halved
¼ pound Cipollini onions, roasted, peeled, and halved
1 tablespoon minced shallots
¼ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
Sage Spaetzle, recipe follows
Braised Collard Greens, recipe follows
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add baby carrots. Cook carrots for two and one half to three minutes, or until tender. Remove carrots from the water and immediately plunge into a large bowl of ice water. Stir until well chilled. Remove carrots from the ice water, pat dry and set aside. Return the large pot of water to a boil and add the baby turnips. Cook turnips for about five minutes, or until tender (depending on the size of the turnips). Remove turnips from the water and immediately plunge into the ice water. Stir until well chilled. Remove turnips from the ice water, pat dry and cut into quarters. Set aside. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rub the olive oil over the pork loin and season evenly with the Herb Salt and black pepper. In a heavy, cast iron skillet, heat the vegetable oil until hot and almost smoking. Add the pork loin and sear on all sides until well browned, four to five minutes per side. Place loin on a cooking rack set inside a roasting pan and roast for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees and cook for an additional 20 to 30 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into the center of the pork loin registers 150 degrees. Remove from the oven and let loin rest for 15 minutes in a warm spot. While the pork is resting, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Melt two tablespoons of the butter in the skillet. Add the blanched turnips, beets, and Cipollini onions; cook, stirring occasionally, for two to three minutes. Add carrots and season vegetables lightly with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for one more minute and add the shallots and thyme. Cook for one more minute, or until all the vegetables are heated through. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm. Slice the pork loin into about 12 slices, about one-half-inch thick each. Spoon one cup of the Sage Spaetzle, one half cup of the Braised Collard Greens, and equal portions of the roasted vegetables on each of six plates. Arrange two slices of Roasted Pork Loin over each plate and serve immediately. Serves six.
2¼ cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3 large eggs
¾ cup whole milk
4 teaspoons minced assorted fresh sage
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Blend flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Whisk in eggs and milk, forming soft batter; stir in the sage. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Butter a large bowl. Working with one-third cup batter at a time and using a rubber spatula, press batter directly into boiling water through one-fourth-inch holes on a coarse grater or strainer. Stir spaetzle to separate and boil for two minutes. Using a fine sieve, scoop spaetzle from pot, drain well, and transfer to the buttered bowl. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add spaetzle and sauté until they begin to brown, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serves six.
BRAISED COLLARD GREENS
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
2 slices bacon, diced
1¾ cups diced onions
1 cup ham hock, pork, or chicken broth
3 (1/2 pound each) bunches cleaned collard greens, stems removed and roughly chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oil in a large, heavy stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crispy, about five to eight minutes. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about two minutes. Add the ham hock broth and bring the mixture to a boil. Place the collard greens into the boiling ham hock mixture, stirring until they begin to wilt. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, covered for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until greens are tender. Keep greens warm until ready to serve. Makes five cups.